2560
Welcome to the step-by-step guide to removing and replacing the rear wheel of your bike. Unlike the front wheel of your bike, the rear wheel uses 18mm nuts to secure the axle to the frame. Also while removing the back wheel you will be working around the derailleur and derailleur guard.
Tools Required:
- 18mm Box end/Crescent Wrench
Removing the Rear Wheel
Step 1:
Using the shifter on the right side of your handlebars, shift the chain into the highest gear (#7) so that the chain will be in the furthest outboard position. Keep in mind that the chain must be in motion to change gears, so you might need to lift the bike and use the pedals to spin the wheel in order to get the chain into the correct gear.
Step 2:
Disconnect the electrical connection wire that connects the motor to the battery. Also remove any zip ties that may be holding the wire onto the frame. This will allow you to eventually fully remove the wheel from the frame.
Step 3:
Locate and loosen nuts securing axle to the frame. The nuts will be covered with protective plastic cap which will need to be removed before loosening. Also before loosening, take note of the position of the spacers so that you can match the same positioning when re-installing the wheel in the dropouts.
-Use an 18mm crescent wrench to loosen the nuts, starting with the non-drive side of the bike.
Step 4:
Remove wheel from the dropouts.
- First position the bike on the ground.
- With one hand on the frame of the bike, lift upward while applying downward pressure on the wheel with your other hand. You should be able to separate the wheel from the frame at this point. If you cannot separate the wheel from the bike, check to make sure the axle nuts need to be loosened more.
- Next you may need to assist the chain in separating from the freewheel. Pulling or pushing the derailleur downward and allowing some slack in the chain will help the chain to release and your wheel will be completely separate from the bike at this point.
- Now that the wheel is out, be careful to not set the bike directly down on the ground, as the weight of the bike would be resting on the derailleur. Pictured below are a couple of ways to prevent damaging your frame or derailleur while the rear wheel is out. You can use the kickstand and handlebar to gently lean against a wall or alternatively you can use something beneath the bottom bracket to prop up the bike. In this instance, a small garbage can worked pretty well.
Re-installing the Rear Wheel
Step 1:
Insert wheel back into the dropouts.
- Replace the chain onto the freewheel, it should be positioned on the outermost cog (gear #7)
- Make sure your disc rotor is positioned between the brake pads
- Position the spacers on the axle in the arrangement they were in before you loosened the axle nuts.
- Replace the derailleur guard between the outer 18mm nut and the washer.
- At this point, you should be able to insert the axle into the dropouts. As previously performed, keep one hand on the frame and one hand on the wheel and lower the frame dropouts onto the axle. If you are having trouble inserting the axle into the dropouts, check to make sure the axle is aligned properly. There is a washer with a lip on both sides of the bike. Make sure the chip is aligned with the open portion of the drop out, if it is not aligned simply twist the axle with your fingers until the lip is aligned.
- Before tightening check: Washers are in the correct position, derailleur guard is properly positioned, brake rotor sits nicely between brake pads, axle is fully inserted into dropouts. Now it is time to tighten.
Step 2:
Tighten bolts and secure wheel onto the frame.
- While standing and holding the bike in place, apply downward pressure to make sure the axle is fully seated in the dropouts.
- Starting with the non-drive side, tighten the nut with a crescent wrench.
- Move to the drive side and tighten the nut.
- Using your hand to spin the pedals and turn the wheel, listen for any undesired noises such as brake rub. If you do hear this, you may need to loosen and re-tighten the axle nuts again as the axle may not be aligned properly. If the brake rubbing persists, it may simply be a matter of truing your rotor that may have gotten slightly bent during re-installation of the wheel.
Step 3:
Reconnect the electrical line for the motor.
- If you had to remove any zip ties to get the wheel out, remember to replace the zip ties. These ties will help hold the electrical cable to the frame and prevent it from getting snagged on objects while riding.
Step 4:
Check for abnormalities.
- Using the pedals and with the motor turned off, spin the rear wheel for a safety check. Make sure that all nuts are tightened down and that your wheel is centered properly. If your wheel is not centered properly you will most likely be able to hear your brakes rubbing. If this is the case, try loosening the axle nuts and tighten them again.
