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Seat / Saddle Adjustment
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Here you will find a guide on how to adjust the height, rotation, and the leveling of the saddle for the most comfortable ride quality.

NOTE: It is important to re-check seat height after making adjustments to saddle position


Tools required:

  • 6mm Allen (Hex) key
  • Grease (For seatpost installation in frame)


Standard (Height & Rotation) adjustments below, more adjustments covered after owners manual portion


Leg extension and saddle height guide:

For a basic saddle height adjustment, you can adjust the height to what you think is appropriate, and then follow these steps,

repeating as necessary. Using a wall or counter to lean on will be helpful for this


  • Adjust saddle height
  • Sit on bike
  • Safely lean against a wall/counter or stable object
  • Put the heels of your feet over the middle of the pedal spindle
  • Pedal backwards gently and stop when pedal is in the same orientation as the seatpost / seat tube of the bike

With this way of adjustment, we are looking for a mostly straight / almost fully extended leg

Note: Your "Toe box" is the part of the foot that should be over the pedal spindle while riding/pedaling,

your leg will not be fully extended in this position



If while seated and pedaling, you find that your hips rock side to side when at the bottom of the pedal stroke, lower the saddle slightly to avoid over-extending


If while seated on the bike, you find that your knees raise above your hips while pedaling, raise your saddle higher to be able to get full ability from your legs



You may want the saddle low enough to put your feet on the ground when coming to a stop:

The way to do this while having the correct saddle height, is to balance your weight more onto your wrists, keeping one foot on a pedal

and moving from the seated position, to a self-supported position over the top tube of the bike, ready to put your free hanging foot down when you have slowed to a stop. Once stopped, you can put both feet on the ground while standing over the bike (between the saddle and handlebar over the top tube)

(For an example, do an internet search for: Safely dismounting a bicycle, we hope to have our own example in the future)



All adjustments on the seatpost can be made with a 6mm Allen / Hex key. Torque the seatpost to 22Nm after making any adjustments


  • Your goal is to have the saddle level from the nose of the saddle to the rear with this shape and riding position,

this keeps your weight distributed evenly and keeps any chance of irritation to a minimum


NOTE: Any adjustments made to saddle positioning should be "test ridden" for approximately 100-200 miles, or one to two weeks;
to give an accurate representation of the effects

  • If you are an occasional rider and don't ride as often as described above, another option is to stop by your local bike shop and ask them

about bike specific clothing to reduce irritation

  • Bike specific clothing (chamois) are a great addition and are greatly helpful if riding more than 10 miles at a time.



Pictured below are bad examples of saddle angles:




One part of adjustment is the Fore / Aft positioning, most will come centered in the rails to begin with.
Do not clamp on the rails near the bends, the flat section is the only part meant to be clamped.
(Shown below)



Failure to adjust within manufacturer specifications can result in failure and cause serious injury or cause loss of control


Please contact us if you have any questions!





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